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6th December 2006Got hold of a marvellous book on the rise of the British Rubber Industry in the 19th Century by one William Woodruff. You all know it probly, but it's an exciting find to me! It was published in 1958, so I could almost put it up, but I'm currently trying to finish that Hancock Narrative text and it's taking me an age. I thought you could scan in a book on a wet afternoon! I suppose the scanning in is quite quick, it's the going through and picking up the things the poor machine got wrong. Maybe better scanners get everything right? Or maybe it's better software I need... Anyway, must find a way of getting the Woodruff highlights at least onto the sympathetic screen. You may think I need to get out more. Last night I did! Went to see the Queen, about the Royal family and the death of Princess Di. But it turned out to be a busman's holiday! There was the Queen in what looked to me like a genuine, genuine, single texture garment designed to keep the wearer dry. I hesitate to say 'mackintosh' for fear of stirring the old man's bones. An absolutely bizarre piece of styling that could not have been conceived outside that very special Ceolocanth circle. Was I seeing things?? |
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1st December 2006Lovely to see some decent trenches about town this fall - short I know but still ... The one on the right is just the right length though, and in a proper rainwear material I would say. Such a pleasure to come across it on a rail journey - in a brochure somebody had left behind. The brochure was trying to sell interior design, a firm called Poliform, very swish, like this adorable trench, which appears just once on page 81 of 192 pages altogether. Poliform could design my interior anyday. I don't know what will happen to the update this month. It's done but I'm having problems uploading it. Hope you enjoy the bits that come through at any rate!
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1st November 2006Great new archive has reached me this week from JJ in North America concentrating on polyurethane and similar fashions from recent decades. Grey it ain't!
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1st OctoberJess Cartner-Morley tells us grey is the now colour - 'since Moss started wearing a pair of grey Superfine jeans two years ago.' Grey with leopard-print she says will earn you a gold star this Autumn but grey with silver is sort of upper second. Grey with leopard-skin?? Could Jess be that little bit tired? Could we settle for grey with silver? It sort of is silver, when we are thinking rainwear with a decent sheen. A shimmer of silvery grey with every rustling step... and I don't mean the leaves. Sounds like a lovely Autumn to me! Do enjoy the update, please ...
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17th SeptemberThe talented Rachael got a credit in the Guardian Weekend last week (9th Sept) - the main photoshoot. Did you see? Now about to start her MA in fashion journalism. Lots of RC people have written to wish her well! |
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13th SeptemberJust had my attention drawn to a piece by Howard Jacobson in The Independent back in April (29:04:06), where he reports on a visit to 'a site called, succinctly, Rainwear Films'. The quotes he gives sound like it's our site he means (but almost all his quotes are slightly wonky). I can't find any site called Rainwear films myself - have I missed something? Anyway, what he says is that The Third Man is a surprising omission. So I've put it in. Thanks for the recommendation, Howard. |
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10th SeptemberIts a snip! Made-to-measure reaches the high street: " In two weeks, Harrods will be the latest large retailer to offer made to measure clothes on a mass scale.... With prices starting at £750 it is not a cheap way to shop but it is less than a tenth of the price of most made to measure services." Hadley Freeman in the Guardian, 09:09:06 Customers of other made-for-measure services I won't mention please note! 10 x £750 = £7,500. |
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Rubber knickers at Anatomicbomb.com, £30
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1st SeptemberSeptember Vogue: waterproof lingerie for Kate Moss, indulging in 'fashion's new-found fetish for rubber and leather' p318. Maybe most people find wearing rubber knickers 'unaccepable'. If so, watch out! The govt will try and make it illegal, penalty up to three years. Enjoy the update while you can. LE
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1st AugustPeople are getting into the way of sending me stuff just before the update - thanks! - but it means I can't always get them up all up in time - sorry. Eg Part 3 of Imogen's Equestrian School story, much anticipated I know, is on the way... One really great development is DVDs of classic and not so classic rainwear films being increasingly available. Quality varies (depending on if it's a remastering and if it's not on what the copied vid was like). Used to think stills were second best to clips, but I now think you need both! Some of these DVDs produce fantastic stills. Enjoy the update anyway. It may take your mind of all this scorching impermeaphobe weather some of us have been suffering from ...
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31st JulyRobin notes: Brilliant sightings for UK viewers last week on BBC 1 Silent Witness
episodes. The attractive off duty police officer approaches, wearing
a silver grey lightweight mackintosh which I am sure was rubber lined. Two
brief shots but what was especially delightful was the second re-run
in slow motion showing the superb rippling movements of the creases gathered
above her tightly belted waist. What a shame she went under the
bus. |
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20th July |
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July 1stA sort of rainwear coelocanth has been discovered in Australia: a single-texture rubberised mac made by Dunlop in 1966 which is still wearable and indeed pristine. All the ones I've ever heard about are real stiffs after even one decade and to think this one is alive and swell - well that's terrific. The Dunlop survival is put through its paces by model Melai - and so is she, poor girl - made to feed the ducks in it ('buttoned up to the collar and hood done up tight') in the 'thick muggy heat' (I know the Summer is Australian, but still ...). Soggy but smiling, she appears to come through the photoshoot OK, sharing I suppose the remarkable powers of survival shown by the mac itself. A website is emerging from cyberspace for Designer Rachael - form already discernable but content mostly to come. Hope to have more pics and clips (cross fingers) to show soon. One of the students from Manchester Metro got the runner up thing for the big River Island Gold prize: Liam Jackson. Really well done! It was those machine gun cases wot did it! I'm off-line for a couple of weeks. Enjoy the update while I'm away... L |
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16th June 2006Repeat of Rachael's Fashion Show in Manchester Town Hall on Wednesday. Everything looked better, cos it was Manchester I suppose. I still loved Rachael's own stuff best, with the charcoal grey rainjackets we made for her doing just what she wanted them to, setting off the pretty pink-palette dresses and skirts a treat. They looked cool (they weren't, I know!), they moved well, and, need I say, the rubber surface worked its shivery magic ...
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5th June 2006Rachael's stuff was strutted really well on the catwalk, as you can't see. Proper pics (I hope!) shortly. It was sooo good to see exciting rainwear featured... |
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RM has sent me No Blade of Grass, which I hadn't seen at all. If one discounts what are hauntingly called 'slickers', this must be the most mac-rich movie ever! It's much-watched video quality, so it makes one hope for a remastered DVD, but meanwhile I'll put up what I can! Many many thanks to RM, for this and so much else.
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31st May 2006Went over to see if Raincoat Girl had got back from her training and Yes!! there she was, showing some familiar pics! I hope she will tell us what she's been getting up to... Do visit if you can.
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24th May 2006Our ace designer Rachael Gibson has got herself in the Guardian already! Meanwhile her Gateway Collection will be showing in Manchester shortly. (Lots of pretty Summer things and featuring three jackets/macs in Lakeland Elements materials.) After that, new Rainwear designs exclusively for us. Watch this space! |
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1st May 2006Wow! Red double texture mac on a horse (and on its rider) in Heartbeat last night! Update almost made me miss it! Looked like a Hereford style, but not from us. Did anyone get a picture? The official itv website appears to be talking about the wrong episode... (Sorry if this UK talk is no good to you) |
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April 30th 2006Delighted to see that Hunter Rubber (formerly, I didn't realize, The North British Rubber Company, has bounced back, bought by a band of excitingly well-heeled people who certainly mean to go on Hunting. Interesting story of the Wellington boot outlined in the Fashion Telegraph (30th April...) by Adam Edwards, whose Short History of the Wellington Boot is to be published by Hodder and Stoughton in October. |
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April 20th 2006Wellymania has not saved Hunter Rubber from the Administrators. What a tragedy! I know you can get wellies with flowers on now but they are NOT the same (imho). Nice obit by Vicki Woods in the Guardian - Rubber boots, she says, "feel lubriciously pleasing to the naked foot". Oh, Vicki, don't they just! And the leg! And what an accomplished wordsmith you are! - Lubricity: slipperiness, smoothness, oiliness, (lit. and fig.); lewedness, wantonness (COD)
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March 31stThe great news is that the old firm has been discovered by a young designer who is anxious to work on some new designs! Her muse is the nineteenfifties, the cottons, the colours and the shapes - but also as a sort of foil for the prettiness she wants to have us wear proper raincoats on top. Excellent thinking! Watch this space. A special thank you to Alan D for outstanding services to impermeaphilia this month. Not just for the Grasshopper clip, but for a whole compendium of moving pictures which I shall be trying to put up as time (and, actually bandwith) permits. Also to Dave R who made possible much of the Grasshopper material. Even more interesting stuff still in the pipeline this month (what I mean is, there is even more, and it is all interesting!) - sorry to everybody for the delay in getting their things put up. But so nice to have people send such a lot of things in! Thank you so much.
March 16th 2006A visitor asks if anybody knows of films where plastic, pvc or rubber raincoats are worn over other coats or mackintoshes. ??
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March 11th 2006At last! Thanks to terrific help and support of Alan D I've managed to put up a little clip of a French Grasshopper which makes some of the best susurrus on film imho. |
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March 2ndHarry L 's Thought for the Day
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The Guardian 25:02:06 |
1st March 2006Where did you see this first? - Thanks to AM Kate and friends for keeping us covered.
Several things queuing up I didn't quite get ready in time for the update - sorry. Will get them up as soon as possible as the bishops no doubt said. Hope you enjoy the bits that did get through. LE |
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Trenchcoats still available from under £800
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17th February 2006"You know what's wrong with your wardrobe? It is lacking a gold coat which, as anyone knows, is an absolute must, Darling. Yes, this one is so expensive you'd think it was made of real gold, but who can put a price on something that brings out your inner Sharon stone? Trenchcoat, £759, by Burberry Prosum." Guardian Weekend 11:02:06. |
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12th February 2006Can anybody tell me which film these come from? Please. Somebody very nice sent me a clip and I'm completely obsessed...
Harry L writes to say he can't help with the name of the film, but will take very seriously the new NHS guidance, below. [Now identified: The Aviator's Wife. Thanks among others to Bryn. See above.]
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10th February 2006Terrific advice on the NHS Direct website. I didn't know about those muscles. And what a great way to talk about going solo. Let's hope Kant is learning to turn enjoyably in his grave.
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31st January 2006Decent spread of rainwear in Saturday's Personal Shopper column in the Guardian - though nothing to break the heart. Columnist Annalisa Barbieri responds to a Mum who wants rainwear for pushing a buggy in all weathers but not the "grim Gore-Tex 'mummy' jacket" she hates to wear at the mo. Annalisa comes up with the Muji Freecut Raincoat, a sort of pakamac concept, capable of being pouched when not required, but this rather misses Mum's point that she needs the buggy-pushing garment to double as something smart for lunch with the client. A trenchcoat called Tu, forthcoming at Sainsbury's, makes sense, but not in the serious wet, and an £895 number from Bamford would do no better and look suitably floppy only on a very soggy liberal. Annalisa, there is another way!
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29th January 2006Bryan says: For several reasons Genevieve is a very fine film. I've seen it replayed several times and, amongst other joys, love to see Dinah Sheridan in her lovely riding mac. And yet; and yet - I feel sure that when I saw the film originally in the fifties, Kay Kendal waw shown, for quite a few minutes, too, in her mac, blue, single textured. Have I been deluding myself all these years ? Or was/am I right and was the film cut for some reason? Anyone agree with me? Better still has anyone a video of a longer (uncut) edition ? That'd be super. Congenial, impermeable greetings for 2006. Bryan |
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Jon writes:
Any confirmation?
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15th January 2006Ben has written with a couple of great links to US tv clips. He says::
Thanks Ben. |
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12th January 2006The perfect M-D. Lovely New Year card, to you and me, from Namrof, creator of one the Club's most popular pages, Girlfriends. Thank you!
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7th January 2006For his first pottery lesson, says Turner Prizewinner Grayson Perry, in a wonderful article about his development as a person and as an artist: "we had to wear light-blue smocks. They were made of heavy, rubberised material, fastened at the back with snappers ... I had last pick of the smocks, so the one I got was tight. The classroom helper, Miss Maple, who looked like Dusty Springfield, snapped me into it. The combination of this and the squeaky, smooth, restrictive smock turned me on. I was being dressed like a small child; it felt very humiliating. Humiliation is one of the most powerful turn-ons for me." Guardian Weekend, 07:01:06, p.17. 5th Januray 2006
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New Year's Eve, 2005Hazel and I have collaborated on the New Year's greeting from Blackpool that I hope you'll enjoy. Thanks to everybody for their contributions this year - lots of lovely things, quite a few still in the pipeline to the site. Hope you like what has come out of the pipe this month. Apologies to everyone for getting behind as I always do. My hope for the new year is to make good progress with the history project. Trade Directories are the thing, and photographic archives in local libraries? There is a world back there to honour before it slips away completely - well, several worlds, actually.
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15th December 2005Ben sent me the following link to a terrific feature on rainwear fashions by CBS News - a video. I thought I had put it up before and if I have and lost it (!) ignore! and also this: You won’t be an April fool in this rainwear Ben, you're lovely! |
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30th November 2005Sort of progress with the enquiry below (25th Nov.) from Dee about some combination of Michael Winner, a Jane and a pvc mac. I looked through A Chorus of Disapproval on Robin's suggestion and found Jane Seymour wearing for a few moments a shiny raincoat that could have been pvc but couldn't have been red (since it was black). Otherwise a glittering cast (including lovely Jeremy Irons) and a screenplay by Alan Ayckbourn no less, were orchestrated by Winner, somehow, into a very dull song indeed. If you are very very keen on shiny black raincoats you might find it worth getting hold of - but do resist any temptation to yawn or you may miss the money shot. And it seems to me Dee may be thinking of something else. Any more ideas? Hope you enjoy the update. LE PS No sooner had I discovered and made friends with The Raincoat Girl than she went seriously offline - hasn't done her blog for ages! - What did I say? If a few of us were to leave nice notes she may be encouraged to come back ...
25th November 2005Anybody help? Dee asks: "I am trying to find the name of a film that had Jane Seymour in it, wearimg a very shiny red P.V.C. mac, directed by her husband of the time, Michael Winner." L
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7th November 2005Lovely to see there is a Raincoat Girl blog. A message from her here. And her elegant blog is here. |
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31st October 2005
A bit of an attempt to invoke Britain in the fifties underway at the mo - Jericho, appearing weekly on a Sunday evening in the UK. I keep looking, but I don't see any evidence of the 'Golden Age' people tell me about ... The eponymous hero (hurrah! I love it when I can use this amazing word. Not as good as 'susurrus', though, I know) wears a shabby trenchcoat, it's true, but somehow it misses the mark for me. Bought a cheap DVD version of The Blood of Fu Manchu the other day, ignoring recent disappointments - and thrilled to find excellent quality! (No macs but plenty of chains and pains.)
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22nd October 2005Terribly sorry but my computer is having a nervous breakdown and I can't be sure what will happen when it comes to the update. The doctor is away! If I'm not responding to your emails this is part of the reason (on yop of my usual slowness). Very sorry about this... I will try and upload this, captalising on a period of remission ... LE 29th September 2005I guess lots of people have bought videos talked up on our films list (esp from e-bay). I have. But can be very disappointing, don't you think? The tape quality is often pretty well useless, the result I guess of many generations of copying. And quite often even if you can see something in the tired muddy-water gloom it's sometimes a reminder that tastes differ! I suppose the middle way is the most frustrating, where the quality is awful but you see just enough to know it would be absolutely terrific if only you had a good copy! The Ragman's Daughter is like that for me. I've been looking for it for ages, and at last success! But it's like actually before they invented movies in quality - bottom of the canal stuff and jittering like Parkinson's. But you see enough to know what you are missing! A pristine Valstar Gangster, in period, in a starring role...
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September 9th 2005A friend asks if anyone can help with info about the mac opposite. Date? Value? Designer? It's made by Valstar. Further pics here. Please tell me if you can help. L.
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One of Rimo's fashion coats |
September 1st 2005Made very friendly contact with Rimo this month, who tailor-make wonderful rainwear mostly in polyurethane and the like. (You all know that, I know!) But they are happy to have a show of their pics here. As I hinted last time, a friend of the site - TG - has put together a suite of PowerPoint presentations strongly featuring their work. I had prepared the first of these for the update but suddenly it won't work properly for Firefox! Oh dear! Back to the drawing board. But it looks OK using Internet Explorer, which is most of you. Meanwhile for Firefox people there is at least Rimo's nice site to visit. Some interesting press clippings of riding macs are in the pipeline too - many thanks to Imogen.
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August 5th 2005Anybody help with this?
July 31st 2005Visited Accrington the other day, the birthplace I believe of Jeanette W. Full of other interest if that were not enough. Leading courtiers of King Cotton did their business hereabouts, notably James Hargraves and John Mercer. An early polyester I read was first produced at Broad Oak Works in 1941. I tried to look up Mrs Elizabeth Ann Jackson's place, 359 Blackburn Road, but it's a long road. She is down in Kelly's Lancashire Directory for 1924 as a waterproofer. Also received this month: a Powerpoint display - a parade of big, powerful, entrancing images, beautifully presented. But not yet ready for the page - partly through jittering on my part over image copyrights. And then a treasure trove of magazines and catalogues and adverts collected over the past half century or so which I am hoping very much to make the basis of a valuable as well as a fascinating archive. Wonderful things, thank you so much! Please, please keep these things coming. There is such a lot of fascinating material that needs to be caught before it is lost forever.
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27th July 2005Just discovered a v.v. interesting article about the 'economic history' of proofed garments in Lancashire. I think it's saying that the hi-tech materials like Gortex etc owe quite a bit of their invention and development to the know-how gained in Lancashire from rubberising cloth over the Macintosh era, the decades say from the 1820s to the 1950s. It's on-line, thanks to the authors, Prof Mary Rose and Mike Parsons, and Lancaster University.
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1st July 2005"I bought this mac just for Glastonbury. But you know the thing about fashion macs - they are not waterproof. I can't get any more wet than I am now." - Ricky Wilson of the Kaiser Chiefs as quoted in the Guardian, 25:06:05 p.8. Oh, Ricky, the thing is, you can keep dry AND look sensational if you really want. Think classic trenchmac, tailored for you personally of course, and insist: real mackintosh material and taped seams. Then you'll be really floodproof. And Cool (if not exactly cool). Like the bottom 18" of the Glastonbury person on the left! Perfectly protected in the very coolest rubber boots - classic green Hunters, beautifully accessorised with authentic Wiltshire mud. |
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18th June 2005John Loadman's brilliant Bouncing Balls site tells us about Stephen Moulton, otherwise 'the forgotten man’ of the UK rubber industry. He and Thomas Hancock kept bouncing off each other it seems, fighting over patents and licences. Anyway, I managed to look out the place where Moulton started to manufacture rubber goods, including rubberproofed cloth. It's an old woollen mill, Kingston Mill, in Bradford-on-Avon. Picture book town, and the building itself tremendous though disused and beginning to tumble down. (I expect you've all seen it, sorry. As I keep saying, just catching up!)
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31st May 2005Went to see the Matisse exhibition the other day - en route for the Burlington Arcade (or was it the other way round...) He is said to have been very interested in textures and his pictures are shown alongside examples of the textiles he collected and he thought drew inspiration from. The textiles certainly have varying textures, but the interesting thing to me - the inexplicable thing - is that his pictures don't seem to attempt textures at all! they attempt patterns, but not textures - imho. Textures, you will understand, are of interest! People who are good at painting textures give you a tactile image of what the stuff feels like - don't they? So it would be really good to find an artist who could conjure up the feel of a piece of rubberised cotton, say (just to take a completely random example). Do you know of any one like that? I think either of the people responsible for the pics on the left could do it. (Only one is dead.) |
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28th May 2005I see the government are now banning the wearing of dark suits in boadrooms, where they have in the past helped thousands of fraudsters to escape detection by lending them a spurious air of of respectability.
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20th May 2005
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April 30th 2005The question that's obsessing me now is this: does warmth matter? Hazel keeps coming up with all sorts of ideas from her History ferreting, and one is that pioneer Thomas Hancock insisted that the only to way to style wearable waterproof rainwear was to make it as loose fitting as possible. Otherwise it would make the wearer, as he considered, unbearably hot. His advice has by no means always been followed, with trenchcoat styles, tailored for a smart fit, with belt and even functional wriststraps, featuring strongly. Is it that Hancock was wrong about close-fitting waterproof rainwear being hot to wear, or was he wrong in thinking people would find this unpleasant? A friend kindly sends me this pic (left) of Manchester taken 8 years ago and showing the Chorlton-on-Medlock Macintosh factory to the right of the cranes. What a fabulous city! The Burlington Arcade boutique is getting mixed reviews! One reviewer questions what exactly it is trying to do while another questions where exactly it is - cos they can't find it! I'm pretty sure it is there, or was until recently, selling a small number of bags and macs for more than Arcadian prices. Even if it is small and expensive, it's a jolly good thing, I say! And actually I don't mind too much if it isn't really there: it's lovely to think it might be. Robin, Imogen: thanks.
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April 12th 2005Visited Kendal's brilliant Abbot Hall gallery again the other day. They have an exhibition of Sean Scully's rectangle pictures. He doesn't paint portraits or landscapes in this series of paitings, just rectangles, usually quite a few to the canvas. The rectangles bleed into each other, which the blurb says reveals great human warmth.
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March 31st 2005I got the Hazel bug last week and went in search of the old Manchester Macintosh Mill. I had never dreamt the orginal factory might still be there. But there it is! Well, sort of. There is a great hulk there, with the magnificent legend Chas. Macintosh India-Rubber Works only half-erased across the front. . It's actually visible from the railway that strides across Castlefield and into Oxford Road Station.But you will, many of you, have seen it I know. Just catching up. Chas M actually started off in Glasgow, didn't he. I wonder where? My next trip! My inspiration in all this is the Personal Narrative of Thomas Hancock, Macintosh's partner, which I'm scanning as an e-text. Engrossing. One specially lovely thing for the folks in Lancaster: Hancock says he was en route to visit his sick partner in Glasgow when news reached him at his arrival in Lancaster that he had died.
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Rosie in Burlington Arcade Pluvious - thanks for your help. Rosie in Burlington Arcade Pluvious - thanks for your help. |
February 28th
I think I have understood properly: a new store has just opened in London's Burlington Arcade, selling posh bags - and proper mackintoshes! ("Globe-Trotter/Mackintosh"). This is wonderful news! It has won 'Best Retail Space' award for Japanese interior designer Taisuke Higuchi. - Nice, but not so interesting, I know. None of us here have been down yet. Reports please! We are slowly building up information about the other end of the mackintosh - not the icon of highest fashion which it has now it seems become, but its first fascinating decades, around 1820 on, would you say? Any body who has time to use their local library - do please let us have whatever info you can glean. Or: does anybody have a picture of Marlborough Cottage, Green Lanes, Stoke Newington, where the great mackintosh pioneer Thomas Hancock used to live? .... We've at last retrieved the name of the original Lakeland Elements website - my name actually ("lorraineelement.com") - so if someone looks for us under that name they will now get put through here. Such a struggle! No marks at all to Demon, who bought it 'for us' when we launched and then wouldn't let us tranfer us to a more reasonably priced provider! (Sorry, anorak talk, only of interest to those who cover up....) These updates come round with frightening speed, only just keeping up - well not slipping hopelessly behind would be a better way of putting it. The stats on the server say we are getting an average of 20,000 'hits' a day - which may explain this punch-drunk feeling... It would help if I knew exactly what a hit was (I know what it feels like). I think it could be just one interested visitor getting carried away... |
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January 30thGosh, where did that go? Valentine's day already (pretty much) and I've only just put the Christmas tree away. Robin tells me it's not just riding macs that are about again:
Hazel tells me she has found the spelling 'Macintoshes' in a History of Manchester dated 1970s. When did 'Mackintoshes' first appear?
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December 31stLovely pic in the Guardian yesterday, ending the year on a high note. It's of one of the supporters of the Countess Georgina Markiewicz, the first woman to be elected as a British MP - in the Irish elections of 1922 - maybe even a family member. Wish I could trace the original which would be better than newsprint quality, but the acknowledgement the paper gives, to Getty Images, goes dead on me. [A friend has since shown me where I'm going wrong. Alas, the pic when you find it on the site isn't any better than the one I put up already.] Maybe someone else will be able to do better. Anyway it shows the rubberised raincoat at the heart of Events, which is its proper place. Since noticing that the original firm 'Macintosh and Co' hadn't got anything like a 'k' I've realized everybody else noticed the same thing years and years ago - sorry. A friend has pointed me to the story - one of the stories? - said to explain how the mac got into the act (on the left). I've looked in Trade Directory for 1856 anyway and there isn't a 'Mackintosh' listed for Manchester at that time - but the ripoff attempt might have come much later. But does anyone know of rival explanations? Anyway: Happy New Year!
L
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December 21stBest wishes to everyone for Christmas, esp. anyone who can't find congenial company, or who has lost it. Here's dreaming of a wet one! |
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December 18thI didn't realize that Charles Macintosh & Co won a Council Medal in connection with their display in the Great Exhibition of 1851. Hazel has just sent me stuff from a Manchester Directory of the period, which has a big advert put in by Macintosh and Co in celebration. They anounce themselves as "Manufacturers of Caoutchouc in all its various Applications and Conditions". One thing strikes me: The firm's title is given as 'Macintosh and Co' - absolutely no hint of any 'k'. Did they spell it differently elsewhere, or was 'mack' originally a mistake? Just discovered a site I guess everyone else will have known about for ages - "Everything you have wanted to know about rubber" by a guy called John Loadman. He is a real expert as far as I can see, in touch with the actual evidence. Gives a lot of detail about the inventions that ushered the macintosh into a wet and windy world (well, it was wet and windy all right on one of those early 19th Century coach things, with the poorer passengers as well as drivers exposed to the elements.) Says he was pressed to write his researches up as a book, but chose to do it as a website instead... Nice man!
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December 16thYou may be just in time - Bryan reports that Kate-Lynn Hocking is due to wear her red rubber mac on a nightly basis at the Garrick until January 5th.
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December 5thJust realized that some artists are into colour and some into shape. I guess some are really good at both. But this reminded me that for almost all of us - those of us anyway that have completed the details questionnaire - colour is really important. Our preferred thing definitely has a particular colour, or at any rate one of a small range of particular colours. Of course it's usual for evrybody to have colour preferences. But what if members of this club all had the same preferences? I think that would be really interesting. (Maybe you think I should get a life!) Anyway, I've set up a poll. It is here.
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December 1stI'm trying to tap people's memories of Rainwear firms they have used (or have knowledge of) in the past. Otherwise a whole raft of interesting stuff will be lost! The page where this material is being gathered is editable just using your browser - you don't have go through me. Do please have a look and chip in if there is any info you can add. Many thanks to PD and Jon for getting it going. The page is here. November 30thInteresting idea from Hazel ("H" hitherto) that we gather materials for the history of rainwear during the dark ages - more or less prior to 1940 I think. Lots of appreciation for our new House model. Thank you all for taking the trouble to e-mail. I've at last got some software working that will let us hold polls. Here is one that interests me - results so far suggest my idea is completely wrong... November 7thGreat bonfire night! I went down to the Castle, where I think it's the Council who do a set-piece display. That wasn't the great thing though, because it was raining - not pouring so as to put people off, just drizzling on and off - and everyone had to wear their macs and boots. Lots of trenchcoats, done up properly too - sharp in-and-out silhouettes softly glistening in the street lights. A man and a women in matching riding macs, and matching navy blue Hunters as well. Young people all edgy behind hoods, closed at the front as far as I could see as well as the back - not sure what they saw of the fireworks - at least three of them (I was counting) with pairs of Converse on their feet - perverse actually, though I loved them for it, on such a puddly night. Hoods too on (five) flashy yellow slickers weaving in and out of the crowd. A bevy of fifth-formers had been let out from the High School in their best gaberdine raincoats and Wellingtons and stood in a row with their backs to the wall. A bit surprised to see also a group of seniors from St Mary's too, though as Catholics they are supposed to be on the Guy's side, aren't they? (Wasn't it a Catholic faction that paid for the Gunpowder ?) Anyway, they were there, and since they were all wearing those superior silver-grey mackintoshes of their's, all is forgiven. Highpoint was when a couple of soldiers emerged from the Castle with wonderful navy double texture capes and marched me off in my navy trenchmac for questioning .... ... Sorry, sorry, must have nodded off.
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October 31stYou sometimes find an artist from the 19th Century - or earlier - struggling to paint the drape of mackintosh before it had begun to appear in wearable form. Eg on the left. Any others?
October 25thI have been looking this in the eye:
Wilson goes on to list eleven pages of different products on the market then designed to alter the smell of rubber products. Doesn't this mean that rubberised materials probably came out of the factories in the fifties with quite a variety of different smells, once one or more of these very various 'odorant, deodorants, and reodorants' (Wilson) had done their work? Maybe there isn't one 'authentic' smell, but just one for each of us? Or is there indeed one magic molecule that comes through, despite eleven pages worth of attempts to modify, mask or eliminate? Some more from Wilson here. October 24thThe Guardian is banging on again about capelets, so, since we've got a new pic, why don't we! "Piece of the season" they insist. I have to confirm, orders are suddenly beginning to roll. October 5thYou read about it first from Carmen - the work on smell by US scientists Richard Axel and Linda Buck reported for us here has just been awarded the Nobel Prize. September 23rd
Anyone know La Punition en Impermeable by Jean Minch? It is mentioned on the site by one of my anonymous (but very generous and very interesting!) contributors, and someone would like to pursue it. But I can't find any trace myself.
September 20thI have it on very good authority that there are in this interesting but not on the whole terribly thoughtfully designed world some woman-man partnerships which work, enthusiasm-wise: just as there probably are, for all I know, people who have actually won the lottery. I think in these circumstances the rational thing is to cultivate - I mean, really cultivate - the imagination, which can be very good, can't it? I sometimes wonder if it isn't actually best.
August 31stI tried putting up a few video clips some time ago, but they downloaded so slowly they didn't really work. Things are always getting better though, so I thought it was time to try again. It's small, just somebody doing up their Chorlton Gangster-type mackintosh, but still will take ages to download unless you have broadband. Media Player will play it, and so will RealPlayer. In newish systems one of these players will probably open automatically once the download is complete. The clip is here. August 30thThe word on the street is 'capelet' apparently. Going sharply up according the Guardian's 'The Measure': the fashion word of the season. Burberry have one, a trenchcoat minus arms and evrything below the gun flap. And so do we!
August 14thThe Sophie Ryder show hasn't moved on yet as I said it would - sorry - but that has given me a chance to have another look at her lovely lady hares. They none of them wear raincoats, but all is forgiven (almost), since they look absolutely wonderful. One sculpture there is of a Lady Hare and a Minotaur, and I have found a pic which makes the same point, though of course with much less power and creativity. - Well, I think it does. I offer it here in tribute. July 31stA lot of interest in riding mackintoshes among vistors just now, and I get the impression of a vague sort longing out there on the part of quite a lot of people who half know they are missing something really nice ... Somebody tells me it was this feeling that produced the huge popularity of the Gangster macs in the early seventies, trendy little macs with bags of fashion appeal - but also having the completely special drape and handle and warmth and presence that double texture rubberised cotton brings with it. What I think I'm being told is that this is big market stuff, not specialist at all, a weakness of lots of people, on and off a horse. I've just been looking at one of Sophie Ryder's horses (to change the subject just a little) - there's one in the market square here. A horse with two riders, though neither wearing a proper riding mac (one is a dog and the other a hare I think). More hares in the Art Gallery by Ryder - wonderfully expressive tall female figures made of bunches of wire! She says giving these lovely forms hare's heads stops you thinking about individuals, and lets you concentrate on the general things she is trying to show. She could be right, though each Lady Hare looks like an individual to me - all of them warm, graceful, self-sufficient-but-companionable, yes, but each with her own distinctive subtlety of gesture... It's a lovely show, includes hundreds of rabbits as well as the Lady Hares - and a Minataur. - See it if you can! (It's leaving here today, but must be going on somewhere.)
July 15thI've just bought a very nice copy-holder - lovely thing, designed well before computers (about 867 AD I should think) but come into its own... for holding books open, and papers, while you type from them on the screen. The maker is a pal so I'm going to recommend his lovely work. Wish I could think of a raincoaty connection but I can't! Except that it's a very raincoaty person using it all the time My new server is also worth recommending - for excellent support for almost no money at all! Costs about a tenner for a whole year! July 7thWhat do you think of all this argybargy (in UK) about children and macking? Some people seem to be saying it should be BANNED! Oh dear! Surely there's nothing wrong with a child being given a small mack every now and again, so long as they've deserved it.
July 1stThe old firm hits the front! Our Nostalgia mackintosh in rubberised polyester appears on the front cover this month of the ace mag produced by The Mackintosh Society. Terrific pic. Inside it says it was 'nearly an actual show-stopper' at one of its recent fashion dos. Ok, ok, but what's that 'nearly' - ? We've agreed to pay for another cover in the Autumn... I see there's a new book out about the history of rubber and the various sects that have grown up around it: Rubber!: Fun, Fashion, Fetish by Janet Blor and John. D. Sinclair. I would love to put up some reviews... Asked the publisher for a copy but no joy yet.
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| Wigan is the type of heavy
weave cotton fabric which is usually the backing for SBR - traditionally
in a khaki brown. The alternative backing for SBR is a lighter weight
cotton known as INDIANA, usually white. This is also the outer fabric
for traditional rubberized single texture mackintoshes. Regards,
pluviusuk. |
Can't help hinting that there is more to the Bury feature than the one page! I've linked the other pages to the picture of the Fish and Chip shop, but you have to search with your mouse...
Oh dear! I sometimes think I carry my love of hiding things a bit far ... But can't stop. Everybody says its very important to have clear and simple navigation round a site, and I do the very reverse. I just love to think of someone discovering a link they had never found before, or getting lost but wandering around and having all the pleasure of sort of ramble. (I guess the reality is that it's all intensely irritating...! Oh dear.)
Done an update, and hope you like it, but I'm afraid I've left out quite a few interesting things (letters, film notes, pics etc) people have sent, in some cases ages ago now. I promise to get to them and put them up asap - just sorry I'm so behind.
Site's more stable now, cross fingers.
Jan 17th
Just back from the post office - huge queue as usual on a Saturday morning and time for thought: a PO Box is £50 a year for the privilege of making a trip down town everyday and spending ages queuing for your letters instead of having them delivered! The only consolation is that there is a real fifties-style setting for the queue, easy as you stand there in the rain to conjure up macs for everyone. Dingy back door in the back-yard of the Post Office, all concrete and steel, with ancient stenciled "No admittance" notices, rusty girders, paint hanging down in strips from what would be a ceiling if there were four walls instead of three plus the wind and the rain. And inside, peeked through the window in the wall, cardboard boxes full of letters riffled through repeatedly by the postperson on duty, and not a computer in sight. A real little corner of old England.
Thanks to marvelous support from my web Host. I think we're up and reasonably running again. Thanks Slashdotcom.Than ks Wayne! LE

Wigan?
Thanks to The Wigan Pier Experience
Do remember ...
the traditional British mackintosh can be made to measure for the larger Europe.
Lietuva Slovakia Latvia Malta Cyprus Slovenia Czech Republic Estonia Hungary Polska |
Hope
the update is OK. Sorry to quite a few people who have very kindly sent
things in which I haven't managed to include. This is partly because I'm
so slow, partly because I'm so disorganised, partly because changes to
my e-mail account (anti-spam) have created a mess and partly because I
try and create a bit of a balance between different interests...
Sorry,
very sorry, the site has been up and down like a yo-yo over recent months.
We have now changed host again and I think touch wood found somewhere
quiet and safe. Cross fingers as well.
I know the site keeps going down. I suppose I will have to think of moving again. Not the best thought.Scanner now sorted - see opposite.
Still not sorted all my equipment probs, so I still haven't scanned the lovely letters from Sarah, and Natalie, I mentioned. Worth waiting for!
Thanks to Bryan for reinforcing the news about rubber boots being de rigueur this summer, and for other things which I will be putting up asap.
And thanks to Alexis and his girlfriend for inspiring the Secretary Cape. (Have you seen the film yet? I think you ought to.)

Anyway, we made them a Secretary Cape in lilac and it's great - one for you too once you've seen the film.
Two terrific letters received by snailmail: from Sarah, Andy's school friend: amazing! And one from Natalie, who has written before about being made to wear a black rubber mac and boots for a trip to the sweetshop, and who now explains what she gets up to today. She learnt her lesson well.
I'll put them as soon as my delightful equipment allows.
Someone has sent me a very interesting account of their childhood, mostly wearing a riding mac, but it's really difficult to share it with you. It came by post, typed but using a fancy font: which my scanning OCR software can make nothing of! One day I'll have time to type it in, but it'll take me ages...If the author reads this, any chance that they might have kept it as an electronic file and could send me a version my poor machine might read.
If you ever get to read this it will be because I have been able to get into the new server again! As I write it keeps throwing me out - not even a polite refusal at the door - it lets me in, then throws me out before I can upload anything. Apologies to everyone for a missed update deadline, and of course a missed 1st of January update deadline.
Maybe what prompted the bullying was my attempt to use database software, to try and make various things on the site more friendly. That's why I switched! (plus a MUCH cheaper deal). I will persist!
I badly need about 5 metres of purple pvc for a project, and can't find any!! Surely there must be oodles out there. Any pointers much appreciated.
The project is to make a copy of the terrific cape that is featured in The Secretary - v. interesting film, as well as very lovely rain wear ...
Thought I'd found a supplier in Preston market but he appears to be stalling ..
A friend says a proper blog has to have a STOP PRESS column so here it is. (Think he may be saying in a nice way you've got to write it up like not just when the moon turns blue, and I think he has the main point there. Ugh. I'll try, but then I've tri ed ...
Anyway, today: the Guardian Weekend has two things that move me - well, one and a half. Liga at Next is shown wearing a taffeta trenchcoat looking like a million dollars (£1,240, to you, from Harvey Nichols) in a terrific moody pic by Joshua Kogan. The half thing is a new pink trenchcoat by Burberry without any body in it, presumably not in the pink any more, having shelled out the £710 asking price.
January 10th
The gaberdine project is being brought to a highly successful conclusion! Three absolutely authentic navy gaberdine raincoats have now been completed by the workshop and are gracing the rail, undergoing final inspection as I write. They look and feel just as their ancestors did 4, 5, 6 decades ago. The waterproof interlining gives them an authentic voice and handle: and aroma. (Just don't ask what they cost.)
I
see those lovely Converse-type softtop trainers are
coming back this Summer. Hurrah! I love them (as you may know!) but
I do have a rule: they must not be worn more than SEVEN times (FOUR for
boys). This will mean that once the canvas loses its spring they will
be on their way to Fill Land, and it will also boost sales and create
economies of scale. A wilted Converse is a burst balloon, and (and an
even more awful point) much much smellier.
December 31st
Thought for the New Year:
Many of us have concluded that it is early experiences that shape our key likes and dislikes - that having to wear school uniform for example can create and fix an life-long fascination.
I wonder myself if it isn't exactly the other way round: that it is our adult preoccupations that shape the way we treat children.
December 21st
Saw a pic in the paper the other day of a new coat from Burberry with
underarm eyelets visible. Did that mean double texture? (I know this was
not the meaning of the
GAP
mac of last season - keenly disappointing - but one lives in hope). Going
to Burberry's website was a disappointment too! Couldn't tell about the
holes, and couldn't tell about anything else either. State of the art
flash stuff, forgetting really that if you want moving pictures they move
much quicker and more smoothly on tele (eg the FASHION channel). And no
useful information whatever! If you have time on your hands, have
a look.
December
19th
One great great thing I get from running the site is hearing that somebody has stumbled across it and is amazed to find they are not alone in this wonderful world of ours! Huge net gain!
Yesterday I got a letter, no name and address, from someone like this - feeling for years and years alone with an interest no-one would be able to understand, and suddenly he tries a door and there's a room full of friends!
Anyway, he's written about an encounter of his. It's a touching story, beautifully written, bitter-sweet, I think you would say, prickles and berry and I'm using it as my Christmas card to you all.
I can't ask him if he minds! He sent me no address, with or without an e-, so all I can do is hope he will read this, and won't mind, and will write again soon! Maybe Sarah will see it too ...
I think in fact there is a lovely competition for the New Year here: for everyone to have a go at writing about the same things from Sarah's point of view.
Happy Christmas, happy new year!
LE
November
14th
Visited Bury Market the other day searching for some of the real wool gaberdine they once used to make raincoats (plan is to see if we can't make these achingly nostalgic macs available again).
Success!
There is the most fantastic fabric stall, a family business in the Market there in Bury for sixty years. And it was all started they said when their Forefather working in a raincoat factory in Manchester was given ends of rolls to take away and sell by his Boss.
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Thanks to Brenda for inspiring and sponsoring the project |
Anyway, they had a part-roll of genuine 100% navy wool gaberdine. A friend has supplied a wonderfully cared-for original gaberdine mackintosh ('The Driway - Weathercoat made exclusively for Debenhams') as a model, so we're off! And Annis's - the Bury stall people - also had authentic raincoat-check lining.
I think I know now how those people feel who reconstruct a Secret Garden, or the Refreshment Room at Carnforth Railway Station, or a Morris Minor.
L
October 25th
Not got the hang of this bloggy thing yet, but I've been looking at some others. One thing is they all keep apologizing for being hopeless bloggers!
Also the ones I've seen just now say they could do with a new pc, or cd, or rent for a flat, and they would be grateful (eternally, they generally say) for contributions through PayPal. Why on earth sell raincoats, I ask myself.
(But come to think of it, there is a perfectly good answer to this!)
Can anybody help with an exciting query I've had today? They want to know the material that is used for the long raincoats in Matrix Reloaded. (Apparently it is not the same as the stuff used in the first Matrix.) It sounds as though somebody might want some Reloaded gear made! Wonderful - if only I could get the answer to their question. Anybody help?
Thrilled to see a terrific trenchcoat appearing in the Bill (for UK friends anyway). Just one appearance so far, two episodes ago, worn by Samantha I think. Surely, surely, she will wear it for us again? (Not sure what the correct interpretation is, but policewomen on the screen seem to have a great weakness for trenchcoats when they are out of uniform. Possible explanations?

August 8th
Lovely pic just came my way, made my day (month, actually!).
By accident I've also just visited the current show at Kendal's terrific Abbot Hall Art Gallery. It's works by Euan Uglow. And so do they! Here is how he explains what he painted for (he died in 2000):
'I'm trying to find out why a subject does look so marvellous, and trying to make that sensation manifest on a flat surface.' (From the Exhibition notes.)
I love this. Things do look marvellous, quite often, and it's such an utterly unbullshitty, utterly straightforward, utterly searching question to pursue - why do they?
I think one of the 'things that look marvellous' is the person sitting modestly for us above, black petals cool against the shimmering heat. Don't know why. But - thank you.

1st July
A couple of people this week have written with enquiries but no e-mail address for me to reply to. Easily done - if its you, do please get in touch.
Terrific mackintosh weather here just now - heavy downpours switching on and off without much warning. No excuse whatever to be without protection.
A tribute to Trudimac and Rainwear Review misses the update this time, but it will be up shortly.
There's a backlog of entries for the film list too - Sixties specialist Andre Bette from Bruxelles works terrifically hard for the list, and I'm always slipping behind.
The links to sites offering software for you to design your own patterns is already proving useful I'm told. Another fantastic avenue opened up by the wonderful PC.
19th June 2003
We have a magazine called Women's Wear Buyer, very glossy trade thing and it tells us that an outfit called Kirsten Modedesign is offering rubber in its latest range: a 'rubber coated outdoor jacket' and a 'rubber textured' ditto. Will have to see who will be stocking them. They will cost the earth of course. Still, nice to have signs of life in the Mainstream ...
Shop-talk: thinking of costing the earth, decided that PayPal might work for us. Seems an incredibly easy way of offering credit card facilities! Let's see if people use it.
Looked at the site from a different computer today and was horrified to find several pages looking terrible. Dreamweaver's 'layers' don't hold their position from machine to machine. What a disappointment!
10th June 2003
Just been to see the new Matrix. A bit samey don't you think, though the road chase was I guess 'cool' - ? (I'm not into Martial Arts, so all that high kicking and chopping left me cooler than cool - quite cold in fact.) But it has to be classed as a rainwear movie, with great greatcoats flapping throughout. And Trinity, flying and dying in her so desirable pvc.
Which brings me to the big K himself. And leaves me there. Bliss.
8th June 2003
Out of the blue on Saturday one of the nicest packages ever - a letter from someone who loves riding macs and who has such an intriguing story to tell. And pics! Some of the nicest, herself and her daughter 'well macked up' as she says they say...
Before that a best equal package I think - someone very kind sent me imp mags and pics from the sixties and seventies - Gayetime Mackintosh Magazine, Rainwear Review, Proof, Rain. Bravura pieces from the pre-Skin Two dark. As time allows I will gradually be trying to present them on the site.
Nominations for the film list keep coming - thank you. And sorry it takes me such an age to put them up.
No comments yet on the Site Test posted in the Galerie Attwood! Oh well, seemed like a fun thing at the time!
Very interesting and thought provoking contributions on the topic of 'covering up' - from two so different angles....
LE
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